[Jay]

Welcome Chris, we look forward to hearing about your efforts. I spent several years in Barnsville in the late 60’s – not too far from you- yes? Lots of good folks and info here. Jay

[Jay]

Welcome, Albert. We look forward to hearing more from you. Jay

[Jay]

I have two sleds, one straight runner and the other a cross chain moccasin runner. I use both for sleigh rides and the difference in new deep snow is substantial. The moccasin “floats” it’s way along (also threads it’s way beautifully through curves and trees) and the straight runner sled (with only front bob steering) cuts through and also has taught me to “swing wide on the corners and take every inch I have” so as to not have the back end drag in off the track later in the season and sink the load. The moccasin runner sled came with straight runners and I rebuilt it about 5 years ago – I love the wider runners. They pull more easily with a load then the straight runners in any amount of fresh snow, while on a packed trail there isn’t much difference – The conditions make such a difference as to how hard the pulling is.
The straight runner sled also has a pole brake- when the horses hold back, a steel claw inside each front runner digs into the snow/ice. The more they hold back, the more it digs in. a beautiful invention. I can take that sled heavily loaded down any hill I have without the horses having to hold the whole load themselves. If the trail has worn tracks for each horse/runner, then it won’t slide sideways either and the claws work to create a ridge that helps with the tracking too. Has anyone else seen or used one of these pole brake sleds? Jay

[Jay]

Sean,
Nice horses. The harness looks good on them. If you want to check the angle of the short tug from the collar, try laying a framing square into the angle from the hames to the short tug. It should be a right angle – it looks good to me- just a thought. A picture of them hitched in from the side would give a better idea of how the harness is working. Looks good from what I can see. Good luck. Jay

[Jay]

Russel,
I also like the single guards you mentioned. Two or three stub guards on the inner end of the bar can be very nice. I tend to use the new adjustable knife clips – I get them from BW Macknair, though I’m sure others have them too. I have also used some of the older cast ones if they are not too worn, however I always put NEW ware plates under the knife when I rebuild a bar – they are not expensive and they make such a difference. Another thing to check if you are rebuilding a mower with some use on it, is the back of the knife bar to which all the sections are riveted. If this is not perfectly straight (no depressions where the ware plate ride) I strongly suggest replacing it. Doing so will save untold aggravation when mowing heavier hay. Hope this helps. Jay

[Jay]

In relation to heating metal, particularly something round and heating it in the center, be VERY careful. In heating the center of a wheel, the center tries to expand, but the spokes and rim have no give and aren’t heated and therefore don’t expand and pretty quickly you may end up with a broken wheel and/or hub. I have sometimes used a little heat (propane as John said) and let it cool, heat again, just some, and let it cool and heat again, let it cool. just the slight changing in size that the heating/cooling causes will sometimes loosen up that tight one. Good luck. Jay

[Jay]

Russel, Yes, take the bolt and cap off and you should be able to slide wheel off the axle. If it’s tight you may need to use a gear puller. There is a key-way also. Good luck. What are you hoping to accomplish by taking the wheel off? Jay

[Jay]

I use one of these key hole grabs and love it. Contrary to what I think John said, you DONT have to feed the whole chain through it – just drop a short loop through and let the end follow where it will – safer and easier than a grab hook. Jay

[Jay]

Daniel, in my experience, the raker arm loaders are much more rugged (often being left outside, they still hold up) where as the conveyor type loaders must be kept indoors and even then, the ropes weaken with age and must be replaces. I have a New Idea (raker arm type) which I have used for more than 30 years and am very satistfied with it.
I have no experience with a gear driven loader. Jay

[Jay]

My guess is that the pole being able to switch places with the tool box allows for moving the pole or shafts to allow for different size horses. Jay

[Jay]

John, I cut mine like you talked of doing and then was able to get at both halves and with just a LITTLE heat able to get both ends out even when I couldn’t touch it before I cut it in half. Jay

[Jay]

I don’t bother with a crazy wheel. I use new england “D” ring harness, so the weight of the pole is on my horses’ backs, not their necks. It also holds the pole right with the horses so if they move 1″ to one side, the pole moves too. Makes accuracy a bit easier. I think the overall condition and level of adjustment of the mower has much more to do with the way it cuts than which # mower it is. “Does your mower hum like a sewing machine?” Jay

[Jay]

I’m not sure the make. It doesn’t have wheels. I have some pictures in my computer now and am working to figure out how to post them here. Jay

[Jay]

Yes, we are in Brattleboro, Vermont, about 8 minutes off of I-91. Jay

[Jay]

I’ll try to get some pictures of it and put them up. I’m not sure what you mean by “ground hog” type thresher. It’s just over 9 feet long, and I hauled it home in the back of my full sized pickup. It has 2 chutes out the side of the bottom, one for grain, and one for weed seed. It has a blower, straw walker and several screens as most threshers do. Jay

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