[Rod]

I have seen an two old yokes that were drilled like that. I though perhaps the builder did it on purpose so the yoke could be used with two diffrent sized bows as the oxen got bigger. By doing a number of yokes that way with diffrent spacing and switching back and forth it would be possible to cut down the number of yokes that needed to be built. They would not fit as well as a yoke made for each size individually but likely in days past practical folks were not as careful as we might be today about such things.

[Rod]

There are a lot of very well trained 4H steers available in New England and at good prices considering the time and feed it takes to get a team ready. Since it’s about 3 years to get a team of oxen big enough to do heavy work I would think that would be a deciding factor if you want to get started sooner rather than later.

[Rod]

That’s intresting, how do you go about raising the bit?

[Rod]

My mule had a big issue with her bit and the farm I got her from had a mule bit with a roller on it which she fought like mad. I changed her to a snaffle bit with rubber and she was better but still fussed a little. Then we had the teeth floated ( they were bad) and waited a few days for any sores she may have had from them to heel and tried her again. She was much better so I tried a Mullen Liverpool bit on the snaffle settling and she is almost normal, just a little drooling. During this time I have been working to soften her mouth also. Light reins and working on the ground with just the bridle and bit then with lines. She has vastly improved. I don’t know for sure it was the teeth but I thing all the changes helped a little.

[Rod]

I bought my molly mule with a 60 return guarantee because their were so many issues and questions about her behavior that was was not sure I could strighten out. More than once I almost put her on the trailer for the trip back (2.5 hours) but stuck with her. I actually think the 60 day deadline encouraged me to work with her more consistently and harder than I otherwise would have and she turned out great. I could not ask for a better mule, compliant, sensitive, willing and friendly. It was all in there but needed some patience and practice to bring it back out.

[Rod]

Ok I found the Rutherford book and she did 20 stalls in a 60′ long barn (3′ spacing) but had no information on stall depth. She said at that time she had Dexters from 32 to 46″ high. Then I called a friend that I know has a setup for Dexters as free stalls and his are 36″ apart also and 63″ deep. Skip told me if he were doing it again he would add 3-4″ to the depth because if the cows get their rear ends on the curb they will not stay in them. He has a concrete curb and beds with sawdust and rarely has to clean the stalls out. I am going to do mine that way as I want free stalls. Hope this helps.

[Rod]

@Mark Cowdrey 20598 wrote:

Rod,
The tie-ups will be for milking & I plan to turn them out daily as Joshua described. My thought is to run the calf with the mom during the day and separate at night for morning milking. Any tips or suggestions appreciated.
Joshua,
Thanks.

Mark

I used to have a book titled “My love affair with Dexters” by Berle Rutherford but am unable to find it now, however it is available from the ADCA web site. She did a lot of experimental work on Dexter stall sizes which she described in her book. This is a good little book about Dexter cattle and the authors experiences with them. She had a milking herd for years and was also an excellent breeder and developed the wildly acclaimed “Woodmagic” herd. If I come across it I will post the stall information for what it’s worth but since Dexters can vary so much in size the numbers may have to be adjusted to your cattle. Rutherford had a small size animal which she bred for.
We are dealing with the same question because we just purchased a small Dexter herd to supplement our Lowlines and am in the process of modifying the barns for their winter quarters.

[Rod]

Are these tie ups for milking on just to secure the cows in the barn in winter?

[Rod]

They look really nice and coordinated. Nice yoke too!

[Rod]

Take a look at this. http://www.heavyhorses.net/Pages/equipment_%20combi.htm

[Rod]

@Countymouse 20465 wrote:

I was thinking something like this. Looks pretty slick. I still have a hard time seeing how the shoulders are free without a singletree, but that could be added.

Same idea improved I guess.

[Rod]

Neat experience.

[Rod]

@Countymouse 20459 wrote:

Rod, I think the travois design has alot of potential, especially for a single. I have a couple thoughts about the particular design you got a picture of. Although I have never seen a Norwegian style harness pull a heavy load, I have always been sceptical of how (and if) they allow the front shoulders to move freely without using a singletree. Maybe they do, and that’s great, but if I was making this I would put a singletree at the base of the travois and use some holdback straps to provide braking. Next, I am not sure where the logs go in this design. I think they go underneath but the arch doesn’t seem very tall (maybe it’s the angle)… I think I would make the crossmember a little taller and use it like a logging arch. That gives you lift on the front of the log, probably provides substantial draft buffering, and suspends some of the weight onto your frame. Lastly, I would think about putting some wheels on the ends of the travois (which I guess means it’s not a travois anymore). Holding it back unloaded ought to be no trouble at all and when it’s loaded, part of the log will be dragging. The wheels will make a big difference in how much you can pull, especially if there is much weight suspended. They would also allow you to back up (unloaded), which is pretty nice. I think your previous idea would work too, there are probably lots of ways to get this particular job done.

One last thought. I think this design would be better if it was “beefier” in general. It seems especially weak with respect to lateral bending of the front shafts.

Hi CM

Funny I didn’t see it as an arch at all but thought of it as a cord wood device laid crosswise. I agree the wheels would seem to be an improvement. As an arch the lift on the shafts at the horse end would be an issue. The load size for this one would be small but for a short haul might be something that would be handy.

[Rod]

How is this for light and simple, it’s a Norwegian type harness. Reminds me of what the American Indians used to use to transport their stuff.

[Rod]

@Jim Ostergard 20444 wrote:

Rod,
I have a small scoot (a little over 8′) On my bunks I have stake holders and I use it for four foot wood. Have had a half cord on it but usually go a bit lighter if the wood is heavy. I also cut a piece of plywood to lay well over the bunks, fore and aft and a bit over the stake holders on the sides. Built stake body sides and ends for it and have used it to haul numerous saws, peaveys, chains and all manner of gear into the woods. Nice warm up for the horse if its a half mile or so. All pretty much made from scrap.
I think there is a picture of me throwing junked up wood into it the the photo gallery. I use so little wood to heat the house that I fit it in my woods and they haul it with the sided scoot and chuck in into the wood shed. Saves a step or so.
Good luck. Jim

Hi Jim

I have seen that photo in the past but will look at it more closely now that you explain it. Do you pull the 1/2 cord with a single or a team?

My scoot has steel shoes and it tows real nice and easy. I don’t know how much load my mule can handle but am I am hoping at least a 1/4 cord or more. Most of my haul is flat or down hill to the wood shed. For that reason the sled/scoot appeals to me because of the need to hold the load back with a wheeled cart. That is what I liked about the previous suggestion using a set of bobs in front and wheels in back but I already have the scoot so thought I would modify it a little and give it a try. The scoot is about 38″ inside between runners so that I can pile 4′ wood cross ways like Mitchmaine suggests or pull out 8′ pieces and cut to length at the woodshed.

[Author]

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