[near horse]

@vthorselogger 21774 wrote:

Its not a dvd but the horseloggers manual has a mountain of information. Gregg Caudell is the writer. I have read it twice and am working on a third time with it. Doc Hammill has a logging dvd to I think.

Greg Caudell also made a DVD RE: horse logging. PM me if you want to “check it out”.

The LIF workshop mentioned earlier is a must attend if you’re anywhere close.

“It’s not to late to sign up for the LIF workshop at MOFGA – Nov 19-21 –
Hands on and lots of folks to answer questions”

There are some good knowledgable AND personable folks attending that one – including John Plowden and Carl Russell:)

Also – I think that there’s some info on the MOFGA LIF site regarding logging contracts (a PDF document maybe). Also, didn’t Carl post a copy of a basic landowner contract/agreement elsewhere on this site? Scan here and see if you can find it otherwise, let me know and I likely saved a copy (somewhere on my ‘puter).

[near horse]

Hey Mac,

Did you look in the gear box to see if it’s an issue in there? That would be my first step. Then spray both flywheel end and gearbox end w/ “Blaster” rust breaking lubricant. Eventually you’ll remove the gears from the gearbox and then try to turn the flywheel. That’s a little start.

Good luck and keep posting results.

[near horse]

@Carl Russell 21448 wrote:

…. I’d travel 5 hours in any direction from here with my horses to do that….I love you folks, Carl

Only five hours? It should be more than that if you really love us;)

Honestly Carl, the feeling is mutual!

[near horse]

I drove five days and many miles to be at Tunbridge and was questioning the sanity of it but after experiencing the event, I would do it again in a heart beat. This draft animal power community we’re all part of is incredible – great people who treated me like they’d known me forever. I’m awed and inspired by all of you – for your knowledge, surely – but as much for who you are as people. You give me hope and I thank you for that!

We, as a community, need to keep this “thing” going. DAPNET, Tunbridge, etc require A LOT of work and Carl and Lisa have given it their all – with great success. THANK YOU!! I, for one, am committed to helping this “thing” to continue and maybe even grow. 😮

Side note: Although Carl “seems” to be the low tech guy – hand milking etc – I KNOW he has mastered human cloning. There HAVE to be 2 Carls at Earthwise Farm to do what he does and I think I saw them together just for a moment over by the ox barns at Tunbridge:rolleyes:

As Mark put it – it was freakin’ groovy.

[near horse]

Erika (and Donn),

If there’s something you think would fit in the stock trailer (7’w x 20’l x 7.5’h), I’ll be coming through Tuesday/Wed.

Drop me an e-mail or call my cell.

Geoff

[near horse]

That’s pretty cool! It must be calibrated to wheel circumference AND width of the specific drill – Right?

[near horse]

I agree with the bumpy ride comment. Especially since I don’t have suspension on my cart (no springs) either. Probably the smoothest riding cart I’ve used was a 4 wheel design with leaf springs AND a spring seat.

[near horse]

@jac 21180 wrote:

I second George on that Dave. at the sizes you mention your hitch cart will need to be well balanced and if you can get it right there shouldn be much weight on the collars.. I have a 3 wheeler also… a blatant copy of Lynn Millers..
John

Hey John – BTW That’s “Geoff” :confused:

[near horse]

Hi Dave,

I have a cart w/ a pole similar to yours but the cart also has a 3rd wheel in the front – kind of a crazy wheel. That said, if you don’t want to use a third wheel one option is to make sure your seat puts your weight behind the axle to counterbalance the tongue weight (look at how mowers or even Pioneer carts are set up). IMHO – I wouldn’t want to downsize the tongue.

[near horse]

I too have seen the irrational misunderstanding of animal treatment and the very irrational behavior of some humans (they are who really needs the good whack). There was a vet student who a) refused to do surgeries on real animals – she demanded and got a “computer-simulated surgery program” so whe could meet her requirement for a DVM (IMHO – it should say that on her degree “Never did it on a real live creature.”) She also was a vegetarian who progressed to a vegan then she couldn’t eat bread (yeast, you know), wear leather or any other clothing that had any bit of animal material OR usage in the process of production 😮

Last time I saw her, she looked like anorectic and pretty unhealthy. Obviously by choice. So, there’s the slippery slope – your life doesn’t exist without having an impact on other living things – period. So if you’re REALLY dedicated to not having that impact, well …….

AHHH, thank goodness for natural selection!

Keep up the good work Ed. You know what’s right so just keep it up.

[near horse]

I just mucked out one of our deep bedded barns and ended up using a mini excavator to dig it out. The top layer was sort of a mix of straw/hay/manure but down a few inches and that stuff was pretty nice – broken down to particles less than 3/4″ in size (or smaller). But that stuff was pretty packed down.

Tim – how about the value of slurry seeding to over seed a standing pasture or grass stand? The big concern w/ over seeding (I thought) was getting good soil/seed contact

[near horse]

@Countymouse 21085 wrote:

Part of the reason I am curious/attracted to this is that with the way that my place is set up, it is concievable that liquid manure could be pumped through sprinklers directly onto crops and there would be no need for tradiational manure management (other than to remove solids from a pool from time to time). The other thing that might be nice about this (especially for horses) is that by selecting only water soluble nutrients, bedding materials would be left behind. That way, there is not high C materials tying up N while decomposing in the field. A lot of of sprinklers might be a pain to move around, but I only have two horses, and will be lucky to recover 1/3 of thier manure. This might be 9 tons a a year and with an N content of only 7 lb/ton it is unliley to be very effective fertilizer if spread uniformly over 5 acres. If concentrated on just one acre, though, that’s a little over 60 lbs per acre and this would probably be nice. By concentrating the liquid manure in this much smaller area, spinkler would not have to be moved very often. Really, I am not sure if sprinklers can handle liquid manure or if some other system is required due to particulates. Even if it is tank based, i could see advantages over a traditional manure spreader… The bedding, for one, wouldn’t be spread. Also, truely composting solid manure requires turning it, which is kinda of a pain for one without a front end loader. Ideas…

Have you ever seen those pasture sprinklers that “roll themselves up”? Really it’s just one big nozzle on a 2 wheel dolly using about a 2″ hose line. There’s a spool that carries the line and you anchor it at one end of a field. As the water (or liq manure?) is pumped through the line, the spool reels in the sprinkler slowly so it works its way across a field. It might take 2 passes to cover a football field (if I recall). That might work for your needs. And some of the high output “trash pumps” (like Honda) can handle particulates up to a certain size. Some sump type pumps handle poop too – nicknamed poop grinders.

I wonder, and maybe this is what Tim’s talking about with slurry seeding, why one couldn’t rig up some way of applying seed similar to what the hydroseeders do for lawns. Essentially, seed in a mixture with some nutrients and a sort of compost. We might get a higher success rate when we overseed our pastures/hayfields.

Tim, my access to a computer able to view youtube is limited. Can you please explain the slurry seeding idea in more detail? Thanks.

[near horse]

I’ve seen dairies, including the University dairy here, pump straight out of the lagoon onto adjacent grass hay ground using a high output irrigation nozzle (look like a fire hose nozzle).

[near horse]

Mitch,

What you describe sounds like a crop roller that was supposed to flatten a greene manure crop so that one could plant directly into the crop w/o tillage. I think there was some data on success on Rodale’s “New Farm” website. Results seemed pretty variable.

Can you afford to let buckwheat breakdown a bit (maybe overwinter?)?

Discing that stuff didn’t help much? That seems to be the best option – some way of macerating the stuff to reduce size and get it mixed with a bit of soil. That might make the plowing easier.

Farming = Advanced Problem Solving.

[near horse]

I know some old timers here still complain about trying to plow under sweet clover in the fall – they say it was up to the tractor hood – same problem with it balling up on the plow shares.

Erik – what exactly is a cultimulcher? How does it work?

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