[Donn Hewes]

Some one wanted to know why I put blinders on, if I thought it was so great to work them with out. I thought about all the factors that I would consider.

If you break it into two groups, the first group is all the different horses and mules and their different temperaments. No two are a like. It is more like the seven dwarfs meets the eight reindeer. You know, sleepy, dopey, blitzen, and so on. Some horses never hear or see any thing until it is right under them; some are all ways know if the school bus is unloading the neighbors kids, even when we are mowing in the opposite direction. each one has a slightly different reaction to sudden input. All of them might be fine, but they are all different. Each one will react to blinders in their own way.

Next, consider what the possible distractions are. You might think it is hard to identify, but actually some can be anticipated. In my case, I don’t have a truck and trailer, and that limits a lot of the wilder stuff that is harder to predict. Just remember, a lot of the stuff in parade land can come from any direction so blinders may not be as much help in that situation as in others. The first place I have to look is farm equipment. Most of the farm equipment happens behind the team so you do have the option of making them not see it if you choose. I use a haybine with a four abreast hitch. To use a haybine you repeatedly make very sharp turns to the right. With the haybine already on your right and turning right your right hand horse (or mule) is side stepping right toward the spinning reel of the noisy haybine. The mule I use in this spot is a good mule and one I raised my self. After some practice he accepted the haybine noises but I am sure seeing the haybine would have made it a lot harder for him. He is a simple guy, he would shy a little from a dark spot and then not apologize, it was my fault for putting it there. He was open faced until a few weeks before he started mowing hay.

I always like to credit the horses. Most and maybe all my animals will wear blinders; most and maybe all of them could work just as well without them. Incredibly adaptable animals. The blinders are there for me.

[Donn Hewes]

I am still looking for a source for JD 12A combine canvas. Any new members with suggestions? Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Ed, It sounds great. Let him think what he wants, then remind him he is still working for you and go on. No big deal! I probably shouldn’t but sometimes I can’t resist – I whinny louder than anyone else. Makes us all feel silly!

[Donn Hewes]

I built the barn in 2002. For the first year or so there were no walls down stairs, just enough boards nailed up to keep animals in. After I built an apartment upstairs and lived though the first winter, I started to think about how I wanted the rest of it done. This extra time probably served me well. It took a couple more years before all the feeders and waterers were in. Now three and a half sides have walls and there are a couple of doors. Today I would probably build it a little different, but it is efficient. I would like to have one good box stall and I don’t. I would like to have a good room for harness, but it is hard to beat harness hanging on the wall in the summer. My barn is very open and one end has no door, snow wind and rain all come in to some extent. I can use that end as a run – in in the winter time. I have an armored pad right there, so when we get too much rain the horses will find them selves confined to a small area. When I am rich and famous I think I will build a new barn with a stall for my Jack, and all the bred mares!

[Donn Hewes]

Thanks Carl, It is good to have some one pull out some of those pictures and point out something I have been reaching for. Call it training, but really it is two of us establishing a relationship. Doesn’t matter which tools we use, so much as that we understand each other. Green or broke, that is the first thing you do with a new animal.

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Ed, there are lots of different factors and considerations. I will suggest just some and describe what I use.

First off, how the stalls fit with the rest of the horse areas, is important. Is there an all weather area other than the stalls? Will they be out on pasture in season? All day or daily turnout?

Where do you keep harnesses, and where do you want to put them on?

Also, the number of animals, any interest in breeding now or in the future, cost, and space available are also considerations. Are there other animals; a cow, a bull, a new group of piglets that could also make use of a box stall.

Having said all that, a row of tie stalls is the cheapest and easiest way to put six draft animals in a barn. I use a 36 foot pole barn with a horse feed trough from end to end. the trough is divided into six parts. There is a five foot feed ally opposite the tie stalls. Each twelve foot bay has two tie ropes and one automatic waterer. The waterers are typical dairy barn type and drained in the winter but in the summer they work great. Horses are led in from pasture and each goes right to their stall to get a drink as I let them off the lead rope. There are no dividers between the horses, but these are wide tie stalls. I used to tie the horses at night in the winter and during the day, (when not working) during the summer. I don’t tie them up at night in the winter any more. My harnesses hang on the opposite side of the barn. I started to harness the horses in the stalls and that worked well; then I added tie ropes infront of the harness and now I harness there. I can put the lines on four abreast and drive them out of the fourteen foot opening. Drive them right in and park in front of were the harnesses hang. This system is very economical and works well with a few exceptions. I have found older horses don’t benefit from being tied more than a few hours at a time. Also, for a mare that is going to foal, a good, safe, large, box stall is really needed. It is not a time to be tying a bunch of gates together.

Well, I think I have rambled long enough, I can take a picture of the horses tied in the barn if you want. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Bekah, Despite the fact that it is a little embarrassing I confess I did know she was up to your farm on her way to central New York. I didn’t realize she was there for that long. I should have mentioned it in one of my early threads and don’t know why I didn’t. I guess that was about a year and a half ago? She is a great horse and will make a great addition to our farm. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Jennifer, There are pros and cons of each approach. Regardless of what one chooses to do first you still need to make sure the animal is prepared before hand. I don’t believe Connie was ever driven before I got her. I know her previous owner put the harness on a few times; but she didn’t know what to do next. With any horse or mule I was starting for myself I would do exactly what you saw. There are three Connie threads all together. Working on the ground, single, can be difficult with some animals that haven’t quite put it all together yet. The teamsters skill and quickness can be very important to staying behind them, keeping them calm, and keeping them going. For me I feel it is the best gauge of what an animal has learned and what they are ready for next. Perhaps people think I am just saying this in a general sense, but I really mean it – skidding small logs is the best training for a green animal there is. It is almost always going to be the first thing I hook to. I believe it is the best training for a green teamster too; provided they are skilled enough or supported with help. Walking while your animal drags something, waiting while you unhook. Going back empty. They need to learn to go at your speed. You learn to make them. Waiting while you hook. Learning to start a load, a great skill that takes a long time to master but you should be working on from day one. It is all there. Repeat the next day. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Dave, The internet is sure a strange place. Wake up, make a cup of coffee, and the next thing I know I am singing the national anthem with my friends in Idaho. Great way to start the day. Thanks, Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Robert, there is a long thread about a page back that talked about the pros and cons of blinders. I am all in favor of working with out them, but last year I got to about the first of May and then decided my two youngsters were going to do better if I put them on. It makes me sound like I am on both sides of the fence. If a person stops to consider if they want blinders on it tells me they are still curious about what makes the animals tick, and thinking about their relationship with them. In the end you make a decision that you believe will get the work done. The amazing thing about these work animals is that they are so adaptable.

[Donn Hewes]

As far as introducing the check reins. You could do it anytime. I can tell when a horses is checking out a check rein for the first time. Give them a chance to figure out what it’s going to do. the open bridle I started Connie didn’t have one. If it had I would have left it on. Connie will probably get blinders this spring and I will certainly add a check rein at some point. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Robert, To be technically, I don’t think mine are either over check or side check. Some one correct me if I am wrong. The over check comes from the center of the bridle to the back saddle. A side check uses two small rings that are part of the bridle, near the throat latch buckle, passing either side of the head, these also would usually go to the back saddle. The point on mine is they are home made from scraps of lines or what ever. They need two conway buckles per animal, and they go on any bridle or bit. Fully adjustable. cheap. easy to use. I would call mine a check rein. Others might use that term to refer to the short part of the team lines. What I call stub lines. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

I was just reading a post by Jean, and when I was done there was a picture with them with Cruiser. it is great!

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Jean, Letting him stop once is not the end of the world. You wish it hadn’t worked out that way but it did. Say the word whoa, then evaluate your situation. One of two things just happened; either he stopped before he needed to, in which case the next time he tries it you will want to be prepared to make him keep going, or you needed to stop him before now and you will want to be more careful to stop when it is needed in the future. Either way it comes back to us. I don’t think we want to make a habit of letting the horse decide when to stop. It can be difficult sometimes to tell when a horse is really working hard versus just getting up a sweat. Don’t be afraid to stop and check it out. It sounds like fun and it keeps him in harness during the winter. That is the best way to get ready for spring. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Robert, if you look at my web album every animal in there, except Connie, is wearing a loose check rein. They are hard to see in some photos, easier in others. This type of set up is the easiest to use and serves only one purpose; to keep their head off the ground while they stand. Look at the bits. They all have two lines going to them. The upper one, hooked direct to the snaffle ring, is the check rein and goes over a hames ball and down to the bit on the other side. The lower line is the driving line. There are mules standing around in the “clipping” file, you can also see them in a couple photos in the “firewood” file. They all wear them. Donn

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