[Donn Hewes]

here is an idea for the DIY’s in the crowd. I wanted steel wheels from my local Amish welder and he did a great job. I think two 32″ by 8″ were 250$. I have actually had him make me two sets, one for a mower and one for a spreader. But what he did was order blanks. The blanks consist of the steel rim in the desired size. He builds out from a hub, or an old car rim or what ever. He must use a jig and pieces of flat steel make all the webs. He adds three inch pieces of rebar or flat steel for lugs. Paint. I am sure with a little investigating we could figure out were to order these blanks in PA.

[Donn Hewes]

Are we talking about a halter by any chance? How long could a harness stay on? I think halters on animals in the pasture should be off. If they are on because they are hard to catch they shouldn’t be left on till the animals are showing marks. that’s poor animal husbandry. Just my two cents. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Nice work Geoff, The first time starting a mower is definitely something to do thoughtfully. Especially when it is your first time and theirs. I like a slight incline when I kick it into gear the first time. The other thing I like to point out to folks, (I think you already figured this out) is that they were made to kick FORWARD to disengage for a reason. You may have to get it out of gear to control an animal that reacts badly. Fun isn’t it? donn

[Donn Hewes]

Larry, Try not to worry about centering the collars. When a youngster is learning they may wiggle around a little, but given three points that are all in agreement their bodies will naturally want to work in a straight line as they relax. Plus we can’t directly effect the placement of the collar left or right. We can control the yoke, the evener and the lines (ie. the head).

many folks never take the lines off the harness. They just unbuckle The stub line from the inside of the bit and hang it on the opposite horse till next time. provided those lines were put on right to begin with this prevents the confusion in the future of putting a line on backward with the short end going to the wrong horse.

I always take all my lines off completely for several reasons. The many one is I use the same lines to drive several different teams and every day it is different. I also keep all my team lines knotted or buckled at the far end. That makes it hard to leave them on the harness. I order to put the lines on every day and be quick but also be sure I am putting the on right, I don’t look for the long end and the short end. All my lines are set with the stub line coming from the bottom of the buckle. As I stand between the horses, I take the buckle were the lines split in my hand, face up, and I know the line on top goes over the back. Once I have laid them out I move in front of the team and buckle them from one end to the other. Because those lines are different lengths you need a system to make sure they are going on right, especially if you are taking them off as I am every time.

I am not suggesting that you weren’t already doing this but just throwing it out as a general suggestion for anyone looking for a way make sure they are getting them on right.

As Far as my spreaders and how I use them, I will look for a picture to illustrate it. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Larry, Try not to worry about centering the collars. When a youngster is learning they may wiggle around a little, but given three points that are all in agreement their bodies will naturally want to work in a straight line as they relax. Plus we can’t directly effect the placement of the collar left or right. We can control the yoke, the evener and the lines (ie. the head).

many folks never take the lines off the harness. They just unbuckle The stub line from the inside of the bit and hang it on the opposite horse till next time. provided those lines were put on right to begin with this prevents the confusion in the future of putting a line on backward with the short end going to the wrong horse.

I always take all my lines off completely for several reasons. The main one is I use the same lines to drive several different teams and every day it is different. I also keep all my team lines knotted or buckled at the far end. that makes it hard to leave them on the harness. I order to put the lines on every day and be quick but also be sure I am putting the on right, I don’t look for the long end and the short end. All my lines are set with the stub line coming from the bottom of the buckle. As I stand between the horses, I take the buckle were the lines split in my hand, face up, and I know the line on top goes over the back. Once I have laid them out I move in front of the team and buckle them from one end to the other. because those lines are different length you need a system to make sure they are going on right, especially if you are taking them off as I am every time.

I am not suggesting that you weren’t already doing this but just throwing it out as a general suggestion for anyone looking for a way make sure they are getting them on right.

As Far as my spreaders and how I use them, I will look for a picture to illustrate it. Donn

PS. Steve Bower’s first book was “Farming with Horses” the second was “A Teamster’s View – More and Different” They are both great references but the second one has the perfect descriptions of adjusting your lines. DH

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Old Kat, There are probably several sources for that info. I usually go to Steve Bower’s book “Farming with Horses – More and Better” or something like that. I will have to check the exact title and fix it tomorrow when I get home. He has two books that I think do a good job of explaining some important steps of hitching and driving. they are both good books to use as a reference. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Larry, Do you know off hand how long the evener is? If Your evener and yoke are 42″ the Stub line or part of the lines that cross in the middle should be 8″ inches longer than the draft line or line to the out side of the horse. You could shorten or length That a little for a longer or shorter yoke. Move the lines 1 inch in or out for every two inches the evener is longer or shorter. When you are adjusting those lines make sure both lines are adjusted the same.

I keep my lines set up for a smaller evener like I use with out a tongue, for skidding or something. On the harness I keep a small line spreader. Not a big fancy one with lots of rings Just a short leather strap with a ring; About four inches long. Now when I hook to a tongue my lines go through the ring on the spreader, and that moves my team apart. Go through the ring on the hames and that brings them together. I don’t have to adjust my lines that way.

This will get you started but each team may vary a little based on their head and neck and other things. have someone watch and look for two heads relaxed pointing forward at the same moment. Let me know if that helps. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Larry, Your horses look good; it is nice to see everyone starting to get out with the spring. I don’t know if you are looking for any input or not, So please set me straight if need be. From the two pictures I saw from the front I would guess your lines are not adjusted to let their heads work far enough apart. Of course a picture can catch a horse just as they are turning to look at something and I could be totally wrong. Next time you are driving them and they are going well in a straight line look and see if their heads are as far apart as the length of the yoke that seperates them in front. That yoke should match the evener length they are hooked to, which from the pictures it probably does.

Let me know if you want help making an adjustment, Let me know if I am just on the wrong side of the fence. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Jen, i think peanut looked great the other day by the way. Nice and relaxed, nose into the barn. Perfect.

I started to type when I came back from the call but the computer timed me out. I use “come Gee” and “come Haw”. i usually use the horses name that is on the side I am going to. with a team of Andy and Kelly I would say “Andy come haw” or “Kelly come gee”, but I know this is one of the commands that a lot of different people use slightly different commands for. I only use a side pass when I have tongue or shafts. I really force my self to make a clear distinction between a tight turn and a side pass.

I just realized I can drive a fire engine to a fire and carry on a conversation and eat a sandwich at the same time; but I have been doing that a few days a week for twenty years. Wish I had been driving horses the whole time. In contrast I know that if I am talking to anyone while harnessing I NEED to double check everything. Just too easy to miss something while talking or teaching. Keep up the good work. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Couple more thoughts along the same lines as those above. Even in turning you don’t always need gee and haw. Generally, if is an “normal” turn, like going down the lane or out in a field I just turn with out saying anything. When a sharp turn is needed or one that is not what you would ordinarily expect it can be useful to give them a heads up verbally. You didn’t mention words for passing to the left or right with out going forward. I use them far more than gee and haw.

When you mentioned conversation I assumed you meant because there was someone there to talk to. In my experience horses and mules will quickly adapt to us talking to someone else while we drive. Here is the problem. Talking to someone else can easily become a distraction, and successful driving is all about paying attention constantly. Eventually you will become comfortable enough and skilled enough to pay attention to the driving and have a conversation at the same time, but it is not as easy as it sounds. Got to to go on a call.

[Donn Hewes]

About useing the lead rope. Don’t start leading them for things you already know they can do on their own. Just leave the halter on under the bridle and attach the lead rope, hang the end up on a hame, so it will stay there. Now your wife can walk with you! Now the lead rope is available as an extra tool should it be needed to help the horse investigate a new thing or situation. try to hang it back up as soon as it is not needed again.

Actually, investigating all these interesting situations without any load is part of what makes it difficult. Provided the animal is well accustomed to the thing they are hooked to; when you run into something new the cart or sled has a little anchoring effect that encourages the animal to stay and figure something out. Investigating without that support is fine you just notice their movements may be a little quicker.

Tell me more about “getting ahead of the bit” if you like. Sounds like you are having fun to me. Donn

PS. Larry, I just read your post after I wrote mine. Great advice about staying alert. If you can be calm and relaxed and alert all at the same time that is a real skill. I think over time it becomes a habit and we are alert without trying. This makes a huge difference. Seeing the things that might be a challange for your team before they do gives you a whole different set of options for dealing with it and setting them up to handle it in a positive way. I keep my eyes on the their heads, this is a great indicator of what is going on.

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Old Kat, just some thoughts and observations. “the leaf blower” the “man whole cover”, and a “bridge’ all constitute things I would expect a green horse to react to. I would be surprised if they didn’t. Before we think about how to “drive’ them by it, I would think about what they want from a leader when they encounter something new and possibly dangerous (in their minds).

Can you sense when they start to tense up, before they think of turning away from it? If you catch them before they are too close you might try letting them give it good looking over. When you sense that they are ready let them go forward. Don’t rush past something like a leaf blower; at what ever distance they can handle let them get used to it. If a bridge or leaf blower is really scary you may need to work up to it gradually. You could use a lead rope for a time or two if you need to.

Finally, when they question whether something is safe or not, your calm, relaxed demeanor will confirm their thinking that this might be OK. Any frustration or extra energy from you will convince them that their suspicions were right, it is a hazard to be avoided.

I wouldn’t add extra rings to the harness as they might interfere when you do want to cross over the horses back. Try to anticipate these little demonstrations and head them off by making them relax before going forward. If you have done several of these long drives they are probably ready to pull something. Let me know if I am way off base. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Unidentified mower, Your comment about the gear case being flatter and bolted on makes me suspicious that it is neither a #7 or #9. Sounds like a early transition from open gears to closed. Can you take a picture? Donn

[Donn Hewes]

WV Drafty, I think they sound like they are doing great. Like Carl said, Keep looking for those things that are working, (enjoyable!). Keep challenging yourself to bring that out in your horses as you try each new thing. Keep them going. For me a looks like a great week to do some pasture harrowing. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Goerge, here are a couple quick thoughts. I mostly looked at the first pic of the spreader. A good close up of the tongue connection. I would attack the tongue with one good bolt. That tongue should be free to go up and down as it wants to. That is a good and heavy hammer strap. One bolt or two throught the tongue will be fine. I am not sure how long your tongue is, but you want to move the evener away from the spreader as much as you can. When you turn hard left or right that horse is swinging back into the corner of the spreader and the wheel. Move them ahead so to keep them out of the gear. Measure to get the right distance between evener and neck yoke. Donn

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