[Donn Hewes]

I think you are dealing with a couple related, but separate problems. the poles on the ground should be a small obstacle. and working the horse in hand, ie. leading them, you should be able over come those relatively easy. You can also work the animal loose with obstacles like pvc pipe. you can hold the pipe and use it to guide them around the ring. and ultimately have them stand still while you approach them and touch them with it.

When approaching something an animal is unsure of while driving in harness, some different things are going on. Some animals will find every new little thing difficult and some thing they must inspect with great caution, others will worry about almost nothing. the list includes parked cars, their reflection in a window, dogs, lawn mowers, and it goes on and on. We need a careful approach, that allows each animal the time they need to accept that thing is not a threat or danger for them, but we also need to a method where the teamster is the leader conducting the “investigation”. Thus your question about backing up.

Her are some tips for deal with those little obstacles that are a distraction for your animal. Start out driving by with out stopping at a distance that you feel does not overly distract the animal. This gives you an idea of how big a deal it is going to be. You can gradually get closer. I seldom walk straight into something to investigate, an angle allows for leaving by continuing more or less forward. Try to gauge the distance that you animal can handle without over reacting. When they start to loose the ability to stay; go. Get a little closer the next time. There are individuals that really get hung up on one particular thing. There is nothing wrong with going to their head to investigate it together. make light of it. Your were afraid of this? Kick it around a little. keep the animal with you.

Backing is a unusual situation in that there aren’t really line signals to stop backing. This is true whether you are investigating something on the ground or teaching an animal to back a vehicle. Again, we want to create a method were we are providing the leadership for their actions. Here are some things I do. I always stop after backing only a few feet. simple say whoa and release the pressure. If they don’t stop they will learn. stopping several times while backing builds an expectation on their part and they are more willing to stop on command. Also, I find we are always backing because we want to put something in a specific spot, just like parking our car stopping allows us to put it right where we want it with less going forward and back to get it there.

Finally, because the is no real line signal to stop backing a horse that wants to keep backing can be dealt with in a couple ways. Backing into a little stick is possible and will work OK if the animal is use to this as a training method. I tend to give a little kiss (a little signal to go forward) immediately followed by a whoa. all of these things will be a little difficult for an animal that is really focused on the thing on the ground in front of them.

[Donn Hewes]

I forget the full history of the donkey before you got it. With out that there isn’t much to say. I hope you won’t take offense if I suggest that this donkey’s level of training and experience doesn’t match your level training and experience. Here are some questions just to get you started. How old is the donkey? What previous training is he or she supposed to have had? What previous work have they been doing? How long since they were working, (if they had a long spell with out working)? Were there any mishaps that you know of prior to you getting them? Do they drive with a lot of pressure on the bit, some pressure on the bit, or almost none? In general, do they seem calm, relaxed, etc. Could you harness this animal in a fifty foot pen with out tieing it up? Any other ground manors or behaviors that are less than ideal?

Just some questions to start with.

[Donn Hewes]

I hope folks are gathering their supplies to help build an obstacle course. Even just bringing your cordless drill and some screws would be a help. We should try to meet on Friday at 5 pm. just to see where we stand.

[Donn Hewes]

Here is my best guess. First thing we do is figure out what the best place to set up is. That way if folks have something to unload or put together, we can tell them where the event will be. I know everyone has a full schedule each day but maybe we will be able to spend a few minutes Friday just figuring out who and what we have to work with. Then I would propose putting it all together Saturday night.

I gotta go work on my obstacle!

[Donn Hewes]

Jay, what is the size of that shed? Open sides? I think covering it would be a big factor in the benefit / loss of composting.

[Donn Hewes]

I am in the middle of changing my practices regarding compost / manure as well. Here are some of the things I considered. Am I spreading for vegetable production or pasture? Since my compost piles are not covered, what are my losses while composting? When I pull out a bedding pack, I don’t think the losses are as great as when I pile horse manure every day. I have one pasture where rain run off is spread out with a long ditch. I have seen excessive growth, without any legumes. My understanding is that Legumes will die out when N is persistently high.

I am just starting to build a spreader shed attached to my horse barn. I will start spreading the horse manure / bedding (currently saw dust), on pasture when the spreader is full. Spring, summer, and fall. I will continue to compost my pack from the winter sheep housing.

Also check out the work of Eric and Anne Nordell on how they save nutrients in their compost. Very impressive.

[Donn Hewes]

Skidmore, Not that it has any thing to do with selling a tractor, but I was wondering what you thought the 3 non graze able months are. We don’t really have sufficient land to use a stock piled forage on our farm. We usually graze most of November, and some times a little into December. We usually start back out on grass about the beginning of May. I figure on about 160 days. Even more for horses as they will come off pasture any time it is too wet, in the spring, or late fall.

[Donn Hewes]

It is relatively easy to figure out the space you need for loose hay. Figure the number of bales you would use. A small square bale is about 6 cubic feet. A thousand bales is 6000 cubic feet. Figure three times the space for loose hay. Interestingly, my new Amish neighbors are all making loose hay. Different Amish communities have different ways of making hay. When I was looking for a method for myself, I watched the Amish pull a motorized baler and a wagon, and decided that was for me.

[Donn Hewes]

Congratulations on selling the tractor. While I don’t suggest whether someone should or shouldn’t have one, (I have an old David Brown that is so dilapidated it is it’s own defense against too much use); I know how hard it is for the horses to compete when big John or Massey is around. I try to limit my tractor to bucket work and keep it out of the field. With out the tractor you will find new ways to solve problems based on the tools at hand – namely horses!

[Donn Hewes]

Mark, Is that loose hay or baled? Any chance of a picture or two? Good luck, Donn

[Donn Hewes]

I have a John Deere 12A combine (pto) also; that I would like to sell. Many good parts or good candidate for refurbishment. In Central NY.

[Donn Hewes]

I hate to admit it but a chain saw with veg oil for the bar does a great job of cutting ice. Just in case any one was wondering.

[Donn Hewes]

Please consider finding someone that wants to rebuild it for their own use on their farm. Much better than a museum in my opinion. It is a beautiful piece. I would take it if you were closer.

[Donn Hewes]

That is a good deal for the buyer and not that good for the seller. Just don’t expect that from everyone.

[Donn Hewes]

Here are my suggestions for some one that need not know anything about working with drafts. First, Jean’s suggestion of taking someone with you. Second use a veterinarian that you know and trust. Finally, judge the animals and the person selling them by the atmosphere. I my opinion animals at work should be calm, relaxed and alert at all times. This is also a horses natural state when nothing is bothering it. The teamster should be the same.

A raised voice or an over reaction from the animals is a real turn off for me. Definitely see them do or preferably do yourself (with help) all the things the are said to be able to do. This might take a few trips. It would be time well spent.

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