[Donn Hewes]

George, You answer your own question, None of the regular guards were made to handle hay already laying down. It only takes a second for a guard to pick up a little mowed hay on its tip and it spreads across the next guard to the next. It is just steering and grass boards. But think about the heavy hay flopping in all directions, and the wind blowing the hay back over your tracks, now try to steer while keeping the momentum for the heavy cutting! Ops plugged again. I find I can mow without a grass board in many situations, (clipping pastures for example, or second cutting), but it is so much easier to teach some one to mow with good stub guards and grass boards in place. I will try to set up a few pictures of guards. I think the #700 was one universal guard that actually didn’t fit our mowers well, but I can double check that as I have one out side. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Most often the stub guard won’t cut just as good as the regular guard. as you say I wouldn’t go with out them. Unfortunately the double guard only leaves us the choice of an odd number of stub guards. I tried putting one stub guard on a couple mowers for folks this spring and they called me back within days wanting two more. I think two might be the ideal number, and have set up mowers with one good old style guard (2041?) before the double guards. For anyone not familiar with these things there is a solid stub guard sold for haybines, that really doesn’t mow at all (even on a haybine!). Don’t put these on your mower. The stub guard we are referring to is made with a knife section up side down and riveted to a pea guard. Amish sometimes refer to them as turtle guards. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Iron Rose, I have a few people I want to talk to about the best way to do it, but I have seen some good jobs. I wouldn’t use just the rod, but rather add some piece of stock. I have seen them with 1/2″ rebar added, or about a 3/8″ square stock. That way you are adding enough to make a really difference. I have a broken wheel here so that is a good place for me to start. I have been planning to work on that on the next rainy day, but I have been saying that for the last six months!

[Donn Hewes]

Hi George, I second Jay in thanks for the update. It is so hard to do these kinds of comparisons. Cutting the same plants, same moisture, same horses, etc. I have been working with two mowers for years, and have used different guards and knives at different times. I have some I like more than others, but it is always hard to say for sure that one is better than the other. For a long time I felt my # 7 seven pulled easier than my #9; just a better knife and all haybine guards. This year that mower was the one that was causing plugging problems in some of our tougher mowing conditions. I finally decided that the # seven needs lugs improved (they are about half worn) and while the mower pulls easily in lighter mowing conditions, the poor wheels allow the knife to slow slightly when heavy mowing is encountered. This naturally leads to more knife slowing and plugging. One of my goals for this winter is turn learn to update worn wheels. I have seen some really nice jobs done. So many things that go into making a mower that works great.

[Donn Hewes]

Hi George, I don’t have that number right off hand, but I have been planning to buy some pitman seals from them (better thicker seals) so I will have to find out the number. When I do I will post it. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Please let Ted Know so many of us are thinking about him. Hoping for a quick recovery. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi George, All my book says is “oil seal for 5/8″ shaft – 20359 D.” I would try to get one from some of the regular parts suppliers. Bw Macknair, Joes Master equipment, Peachy’s. I am sure one of them would help you. Alternately about all you can do is try to measure with a micrometer and find some thing at the store. almost impossible. Trying to place an order tonight for mower parts. Kind of depressing as the parts I want cost slightly more than what is in the mower shop account. But the fun is priceless! Talk to you soon, Donn

Funny story, I was heading down the driveway the other day to do a little clipping across the street. A pin and key feel out of a # 9 wheel that had been on about 5 or 6 years! The wheel fell off and rolled down the bank. Fortunately I have a mower shop so it only took me an hour to put it back together and try again.

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Richard, My cart has only been partially successful. I continue to think I will eventually make it do what I want. The big difficulty is matching the work you want to do with the weight of the pto cart you use. In my case I want to pull a 14′ four star tedder, and my cart; as is, will pull a two star tedder well, but skids a little with the added load of the larger tedder. I have recently put wider, heavier wheels on it and that made it work better. I am planning to weld better lugs on next; and if that is not enough I will eventually add some weight. I can’t remember which chain I used, I think it was 60. Which is heavier? Mechanically the cart works well and is pretty simple. I did use it in a couple lighter fields this year and it worked great until I plugged the chain up. Needs a better guard under the chain! Donn

[Donn Hewes]

yes they are simple. I think I & J makes carts with just the battery and hydraulics. Also most motorized PTO carts also have hydraulics. They also make a thing called a hydraulic accumulator; it accumulates pressure awhile you move and stores it. You can use the hydraulics as long as the built up pressure lasts.

[Donn Hewes]

This kind of question can be tricky to answer. The basic “moves” to putting a bit in a horses mouth are pretty simple. But how we expect a horse to behave and respond to us before that is so important. Once a horse is ready for me to put a bit in it’s mouth, it is standing loose in the center of and area, (round pen or not), paying attention to me. If I have a rope halter on I will slide it off and put it around the horses neck. They will put heir head down but might not keep it down very well. Once I put the bridle on, (thumb in back of mouth with out hesitating). The only way a horse will avoid my finger in their mouth is to open their mouth at the first hint of a bit touching their teeth. No emotions either way. I don’t consider making it “enjoyable” for them or me. I don’t put the bridle on unless I am planning to drive them. On and off is confusing to me. Think of them like your children. You would certainly like to take the time to teach them to cross the road safely, but you would just do it while you were crossing the road. not by walking up to it and going back a bunch of times. When I teach a horse to lead, we are always going some were. I seldom stop to teach this basic skill. We always end up in the barn or paddock as intended.

I guess this sounds a little negative to me. Please don’t take it that way. I have been a way from my horses and mules for a couples weeks. makes me a little stiff and uncoordinated! Donn

[Donn Hewes]

I think that looks like a great rake. They rake very clean I hear. Nice size. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi George, My first hay fields won’t be ready for another month. You must have been getting more rain than me. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Yes, it has been really hot. Finished my first cutting of hay today with a wagon load from a field I had grazed in May. Nice hay, almost second cutting in quality. So hot I raked it yesterday and went out and baled it before noon today. 1900 bales so far. Time for a little break and a little rain to make the grass grow again. Two mares bred to the jack, and one so big she hasn’t worked in the afternoon for a while. Just some tedding and raking. Donn

PS. This mule weather, they don’t think this is hot!

[Donn Hewes]

Peyton, Several random thoughts (at this hour all thoughts are random). How old is he? Does he have previous experience working single? The digger thing with six teeth, is that a cultivator perhaps? I all ways tell people working horses single is harder than it looks. Remember, they are herd animals, and feel comfortable in a group. Out there the group is you and him; not exactly what he had in mind. That is why we often start an animal’s training single, not because it is easy, but because it forces them to connect with the person. He is unsure (assuming this is what is going on) and hook to a log or something and give him a chance to relax. Go slow and be patient. The reason he seems to have so much energy normally is probably because he is not a totally relaxed horse anyway. Working single would be good for him, but just not easy perhaps.

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Gpoky, Please don’t take offense, but I would not make this decision based on my neighbors thoughts on the usefulness of what I am doing. That is just me. There aren’t a lot of details in your post; but here are a few things I would consider. Perhaps they explain how and why I farm with horses. (I have an old tractor, 60’s?). I also have an off farm job – City Fire Department.
First, horses and horse power can be financially sustainable provided the scale is appropriate. That means the number of bales you can make equals the number you can need. The number of acres you want to plow and cultivate must equal what you can reasonable do. This is not meant to suggest that this is easy or it will work for everyone. Most all of us are making financial decisions today that are compromises. Where will we get health care? Day care? Education for our kids. All these things might make it hard to work with horses on a full time basis.

Environmental sustainability is great and I talk about that all the time, but truthfully that is not the first thing that motivates me to use horses. I all ways tell people working with horses is the funnest thing I have ever done. I have done a lot of fun things. When some one suggests how much quicker it would be to use a tractor on my farm, I tell them that is fine, go ahead. You will just have to do it without me because I will be off starting a horse powered farm some where. That usually quiets them for a while. Good luck and keep us posted. Donn

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