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Looks like a great set-up. Thanks for the pics.

George

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Thanks for the input. Ordered the 372 (w/heated grips!) today from a local dealer.

George

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I just bought a Fahr(?) tedder, seemingly in good condition, along with it’s twin junk tedder (for parts) for $500. One of those word-of-mouth deals where it wasn’t advertised.

My experience with the Grimm is that it does not do a good job spreading out the cut hay/grass nor is it effective in a heavy cut. I am hoping the Fahr will fill in these rolls. We will be running 2 teams next summer and I would like to run the tedder with 2, if possible, but plan to set up my ground-drive cart for 2 or 3. One more thing to add to this winter’s growing list!

George

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Thanks for the responses. Tim, I look forward to seeing those results. Mitch, what do you have for a tedder? I am especially interested in how big it is and how many horses you use to pull it.

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Thanks all for the replies – good food for thought. I will try to post some plans once we have something concrete.

George

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Thanks for the replies. Mark, The ring and the way it attached is clear in the picture, but how is the pole secured in that ring? Carl, how thick are the steel shoes on your scoot? Also, are there any ways to attach chains on the sides of your runners to secure the load with chains?

George

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I am thinking about building a scoot and have a couple of questions:

1. Is the 1″ pin welded solid to the angle iron?
2. I’ve read in the Small Farmers Journal that had an article on scoot plans that ash is recommended for the runners and oak or maple for the bunks. Any opinion on using ash for the bunks as well?
3. If I build one, I am thinking of using 1/4″ steel flat bar, carriage bolted to the runners as shoes instead of hardwood. Thoughts on that?
4. I know the pole wants to be lose and I understand it needs to go through the ring between the runners up front. I am confused about the pole attachment under the front bunk. Any pictures or details on that?

Thanks.

George

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Mark:

Here’s what I did:

1. Cut a length of 1/4 flat bar to match the thickness of your pole at the end where you insert your yoke (I think I used
2. 1/4 x 3″ );
3. drill a 5/8″ hold dead center on that steel piece.
4. Drill a 5/8 hole dead center on the end of your pole. Wiggle your bit as your drilling to facilitate the easy insertion of the yoke.
5. Now put your yoke through the plate and into the pole as if you were going to hook your horses.
6. Cut 2 8″ pieces of the same flat bar and drill 2 5/16″ holes @ 6″ and 7 3/4″. These are the top and bottom pieces for the end of your pole;
7. Clamp the top piece to your pole and drill straight through the pole. Line your bottom piece up with the holes and bolt with 5/16 carraige bolts.
8. Now weld the top and bottom piece to the cap with the 5/8 hole in it.

Good luck. If this doesn’t make sense, I will snap some more pictures.

George

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Mark:

Here are some pictures. That piece pictured below is 2″ wide by 3″ long. That is a 3/8 bolt pinning that piece to the main yoke. The nut is welded to the bolt.

This is a side view. I took 2×3 angle iron and welded a piece of flat bar to make a space for the yoke. The space is about 1 1/16″ to enable free movement. The main pin that goes in your pole is a grade 8, 5/8 x 5.5 ” hex bolt. It is welded to the inside of the channel.

If I understand your previous about using a piece of chain vs. eye bolts, I would say no – the more rugged the better. Les’s plans call for 3/8 eye bolts. I wore through these in 14 months and replaced them with 1/2 eye bolts (see below). The eye bolts that attach to your harness can stay 3/8, but where the two are attached, I would go 1/2″. I fellow with a tire chain tool joined these eye bolts together for me inside 30 seconds.

Good luck.

George

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Donn:

Zimmerman’s Harness is worth a try: (717)354-5667.

George

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Mitch:

My mistake: my rake throws to the left. We have been switching up our horses (side to side) and I was thinking in terms of horses, not directions. Tim, there is no adjustment on my John Deere rake (that I can see, at least), that governs pitch.

George

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@Tim Harrigan 20685 wrote:

George, you probably know that side delivery rakes can be adjusted by tilting the rake. If you tilt it down it will rope the windrow. If you tilt it back it kicks the hay up a bit and makes a more open windrow.

Tim:

My rake throws the hay to the right. When you mention tilting it back, I assume you mean up off the ground? I also assume that the right side should be tilted up (not the left), otherwise you wouldn’t be picking up all your hay. Correct? Thanks again for sharing your research and insights.

George

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Donn:

thanks for the info. Yes, we will be at the field days. I’ll bring some guard and some knives.

George

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Donn:

Nice work. How much time and $ do you have in this project? Anything you would do differently? Any reason you used a #7 as opposed to a #9? I would like to purchase a more modern tedder but don’t want to use my tractor to run it. This may be the answer.

George

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pretty much any saddle will fit if it has a wide enough tree. I took a piece of wire and bent it to the shape of the horses back over the withers, then cut out a piece of cardboard to match so I could have it with me when I looked at saddles. there are often a few that show up at the NEAPD sale. I went to the local tack shop and found a great used saddle for my daughters haflinger for only $80….and she actually needed a wider tree than our draft does.

Kristan

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