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I have a 60″ peavey and like it. The bigger the better depending on what you are moving. I have trouble rolling large hemlock on occasion w/ that size. Does anyone have the aluminum logrite peavey http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=XPV+060&catID=? Thoughts?

George

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The USB cable to my camera is MIA. I ordered another. As soon as I get it, I’ll upload some pics.

George

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Carl, I hauled my first 3 loads of firewood with the scoot yesterday using your chaining procedure. It worked perfectly, thank you. Next on the list is loading efficiently and bridle chains…….

George

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Carl, I am close to fully understanding this, but not quite. In your diagram, you have a loop to the left of the log with the 2 hooks – not sure about that. Also, I assume you use this system on multiple logs with a scoot and not your more elaborate chaining system when using the bob? Finally, do you bind the load with your two chain ends on top?

Thanks.

George

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I am in the process of finishing construction on a scoot. I have been drawing from Les Barden’s plans (drawn up by Mark Cowdrey)and from an article in Small Farmer’s Journal. BTW, Mark, the plans you sent me are for a single horse, 10′, scoot. I talked to Les and he builds his team scoots 12′ long with the bunks 7′ apart. I will post some pictures when all is done.

During this process I have been firing questions at Carl, the most recent of which has to do with chaining down a load. I thought others would benefit from this exchange so I am moving it to the public forum (Carl, hope this is ok with you).

Here’s Carl’s explanation on chaining a load:

“George, I take a 15′ chain and lay in along the rear edge of the top of the front bunk, with ends hanging off each side.

At the points that would mark either side of the inner 1/3 of the bunk, I take each end and move them toward the front of the sled, at right angles to the bunk, and the middle section of the chain.

I wrap the chain from the front under the bunk, then back up behind the bunk. At this point I put the chain under the remaining middle section that is still laid along the bunk, in essence making an open double half hitch with the chain on the bunk.

In this way the load is held in toward the center of the bunk, and it is attached to only one bunk, allowing the runners to flex independent of each other and the load. I have a feeling this last part is particularly important on steep ground with frozen logs.

Carl“

Carl, does this explanation correspond with your diagram on your SJF Bobsled article for “chaining a single log with one chain”?http://www.draftanimalpower.com/misc.php?do=showattachments&t=1232

George

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Mark, I wondered the same thing and opted for 3″ runners. I figured the extra weight was minmal. My whole scoot is made of ash, shoes included.

George

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What are bridle chains? How are they different from a standard chain? I am currently finsihing construction of a scoot and envisioned looping a standard chain under the runners in steep icy condidtions. Am I in need of a bridle chain?

George

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Farrier, I log my own property during the winter and have been selling hemlock to a local mill for the past few years. I have been getting $275/mbf at the mill, straight through. I hire a self-loading straight truck (not truck and pup) to haul my logs. He fits around 4,000 feet and is paid by the mill who takes his fee ($40/mbf) out of my check.

George

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Richa, yes we are still in the planning phase. We plan to start building this spring.

George

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Simon:

How much is varmlands harness?

George

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Thanks for all the pictures of the housing, it really helps with ideas. Ed do you bring your manure out with your tractor bucket? Is this your first winter using it,or did you compost in it last year too. I’m interested in how much you are turning and if it stays hot all winter or if you need any extra water?

We are trying to put ours under the same roof as the horses to make it wheelbarrow accessible for our daughter!

Kristan

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Geoff, I run a 20″ bar with a chisel tooth single raker Oregon chain. Scott, I am aware of the decompression valve. Does the chain brake affect starting? I started pulling with the chain brake off while I have the choke in. Once it turns over, I engage the brake, disengage the choke and start her up. Seems to be starting easier. My imagination?

George

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Mark:

Just saw your post – sorry for the delayed response. Yes, I got the saw and have been using it for a 6 weeks or so. I got the 372 XPG. The “G” in the XPG is the heated grips and heated carburetor option. I had a number of folks recommend the heated grips (Taylor included). For an extra $20 it is well worth it. My wet gloves start steaming from those grips and they really help the hands on those cold days. The heated carburetor is also nice this time of year when snow can freeze things up.

The saw performs great. It has a lot of power (significantly more than my 365) and is a great all-purpose saw (limbing, blocking, etc.) – well worth the $. My only complaint is that it starts hard when it is cold. My 365 (albeit a little old and tired) pulls easily and starts with a couple of pulls, not so with the 372.

George

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Thanks for that input. It sounds similar to what we are closing in on, stalls going out to “farmers porch” (I had not heard that term before!). I think I remember you saying you let horses comingle in and out of stalls free will. I am not sure that would work well with us with the 2 mares. I worry the little one would get cornered and pummelled. but I really want to understand your manure shed, since we are trying to incorporate this but can’t quite figure out how it would work most efficiently. Look forward to the pictures!

Kristan

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I use Les Barden’s plug yoke system and rigged an extension to have 3 abreast on the yoke. It worked well and with all three holding back the load on the pole. This winter I plan to make a dedicated three abreast yoke that I don’t have to bolt on the attachment every time. Les Barden also uses a 2 pole system for three horses (there was an SJF article years back).

George

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