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I have never grown sorghum sudan grass but I do not it is toxic to horses. It causes cystitis syndrome which has colic-like symptoms accompanied by bloody urine and can be fatal. Try googling sorghum sudan grass and horses and you should find more information on this.

George

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Are you using round-tooth or chisel-bit teeth?  I prefer the chisel-bit myself.

 

Chisel tooth.

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Geoff:

Yes, this is a sled.  I tried posting a link to a picture of the one I have and failed.  If you could post a picture of your set-up, that would be helpful.  How big a hassle is it not being able to back up?  The chute on my baler is parallel to the ground.  Do you forse a problem?  I have never seen an old bunker / stacker.

George

 

 

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Hi Peyton:

My feedback is along the same lines as Sickle Hocks.  A 3 hour, round-trip commute is a long hall.  Current milage rates (which are supposed to include gas as well as depreciation) are about $.56/mile.  If you are going 160 miles, it is costing your close to $90/day.  Cutting down the commute will pay big dividends.

I also suggest keeping debt as low as possible.  Build a cabin on skids (that you could sell eventually) or buy a cheap trailer.  A simple lean-to would work for the horses.  I lived in a yurt for 2 years while a saved for a down payment on my land and lived in it for another 3 while I built the infrastructure on my farm.

Good luck.

George

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I had a halflinger who exhibited some of those tendencies and I had success doing the following….  I suggest getting a long light twitch or, better yet, a driving whip.  Try working with her in halter a lead rope getting her used to the twitch.  Rub her all over, etc.  Next, try getting her to move away from the twitch when you ask her slowly increasing the pressure until you get the desired result.  When you do, stop and praise her.  For example, if you are leading her with your right hand, hold the twitch in your left and reach around the back of her (and you) and tap her on the rear.  You should be able to walk or run and have her with you.  If she charges out in front, swish it in her face and, if necessary, bump her on the nose.  Eventually, you should be able to move her in all directions with the twitch (back, front, side to side) aiming for the lightest touch possible to accomplish the desired result.

This should set you up to use the twitch while she is harnessed.  If she doesn’t go, give her a little tap (be ready, b/c she might jump the first time).  It is helpful if you drive with one hand and hold the twitch in the other.  Hopefully this will help.

George

 

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I have been driving my Canadian gelding with full leverage on a Kimberwick and he has taken to it very well.  As far as leverage bits go, it is pretty mild.  Max leverage on this bit would be similar to the first slot down below the ring on a Liverpool bit.

I have been driving him with one of my bigger bay horses and he likes to mouth him while we are driving.  A sharp tug on the opposite line serves as a good reminder and he is learning not to do this.  This horse generally drives on a very lose line, but is responding well to the increased pressure as he learns gee, haw, and back with his teammate.  I believe that the leverage provides a clearer distinction between pressure and release compared with the jointed snaffle for this horse.  He is also standing better.  I have moved from staying ahead of him (asking him to go before I see he wants to go), to letting him run into the bit occasionally.  More often, I can catch a change in body language and gently pressure the bit and he will relax back into the stand.  His stand has gone from a max of several seconds to several minutes (often with a reminder).  He has also learned to stand untethered while being harnessed.  I plan to get him on the forecart next week in preparation for raking, tedding, and perhaps mowing this summer.

George

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REPORT BACK:

I have had that skip chain on one of my saws for a month now.  If I grade a full comp, chisel tooth, single raker chain at an “A” (my standard chain), I give this skip chain a solid “B” or maybe even a “B+” for cutting performance.  I tend to keep my rakers pretty tight and I found it would jump a bit if plunging into hardwood.  Other than that, it cut well.  If I were bucking a lot of logs or blocking fuel wood on the landing in muddy conditions this would be my go-to chain b/c of the easy sharpening.  I would be interested to test its performance with a bigger sprocket.

George

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Hi Tim:

Thanks for posting the video.  Looks like a great program.  Keep up the good work.

George

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Thanks, I’ll make a note of it.

George

 

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I have 2 sets of vinyl pads for each horse.  I have both thick pads (2″) and thin (1″).  This helps insure perfect collar fit as they change their weight/body condition over the year.  Even with consistent summer work, my horses tend to put on weight when they are on fresh grass.

George

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That is the number I have for him.  If you find out an updated number, could you post it?

Thanks.

George

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well not all on here are interested in this.So in fairness to those who are not ,I do not want to take up all the space it6 would take me to tell you

I’d be interested to read about what you are planning for a forwarder and I’m sure others would as well.

Thanks.

George

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Like Donn, I rake hay when it is ready to bale.  I like the idea of raking hay before it is totally dry as I think that would help preserve the color, but I have never had much luck with doing this.  My side delivery rake tends to rope the hay a bit and I get minimal drying in the windrow.  One of my hay heroes rakes when hay is a tad on the green side and then flips it before baling (like Carl).  I think those rotary hay rakes would do well in this situation.  Does anyone else rake twice?

George

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Hey Donn:

I will gave the Grimm another look based on your endorsement.  One of the big drawbacks of the Grimm is that it does nothing to disperse the swath left by the grass board.  Unfortunately we need to dry hay to the least common denominator and that swathed hay has been problematic for me.  I think I might try dispersing with the pto tedder right after mowing and then give the Grimm a go.  Regarding the tedding time with a Grimm, I bought a mower from an older fellow who linked two Grimms together (he also raked with two rakes).  These were nice flat fields in Addison County, Vermont.  Sounds like a great system in the right conditions.

I am eager to hear/read about your farm hack project with the pto cart.  I have been perusing the Farm Hack site and enjoying the various inovations farmers have developed.  Turning off your fencer with a text message?!  Wow.

Cheers.

George

P.S.  I copied the url of this picture from Picasa and it elongated.  Any idea how to correct this?

 

 

 

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Kristan picked up a Kimberwick bit at a tack sale for $5.  I drove him in it today with no leverage and he did great.  In a few days I will add some leverage and see how he does.

Geoff, I’m not sure Donn saw your question but when I started driving my mare in a Liverpool she would often throw her head back trying to escape the bit.  Instead of a nice, relaxed head position, she would have her head high.  As soon as be put her in a broken snaffle, she relaxed and was a different horse.

George

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